Picture this: bespoke suit, crisp dress shirt, and four-in-hand tie cinched like a champion. You’re ready to conquer the day, but then… disaster strikes.
You’re wearing the wrong watch, contrasting your suit style, and speaking a completely different fashion language.
Don’t sweat it, you’re not alone. In fact, this is how 90% of the guys wear a watch with a suit.
This is your guide to ditching all such faux pas and wearing a watch with a suit like James Bond wear speedy.
Table of Contents
Should You Wear a Watch with the Suit?
If you browse suit forums, a couple of aficionados must be calling “the 1930s” as the the golden era of menswear.
The same types of guys ask the question “Do you Wear a Watch with a Suit?”
Yes! Wearing a watch with a suit is one of those details that hide the devil (pun intended). Plus, it’s a good way to express your personality and make a statement.
Think James Bond (Sean Connery specifically), Don Draper, Fred Astaire, and every well-dressed man to ever live, as they would have worn a watch with the suit.
How to Wear a Watch with a Suit
When it comes to wearing a watch with a suit paying “attention to detail” is the name of the game.
This includes choosing the right type of watch, having perfect dial, and a couple of other things.
Let’s go into the nuances of these things.
Choose the Right Watch Style
Matching the perfect watch with your suit starts with selecting the right watch style.
The key is to harmonize the overall aesthetic of the look you’re going with.
Here are the options, you got.
Dress Watches
For formal events, and with a tailored suit, opt for a dress watch.
With a slim profile and minimalistic design, it will complement your most dressed-up ensembles.
A leather strap is good for a touch of sophistication. A metallic one brings a modern edge.
Chronograph Watches
If your suit style leans towards the adventurous or business-casual, a chronograph watch can be your go-to.
With additional stopwatch features, it’s both practical and stylish.
Pair it with a versatile suit, and you’re ready to seamlessly transition from the boardroom to after-work socializing.
Sports Watches
For a more casual vibe, like with suit separates, consider wearing a sports watch.
Its rugged design and durable materials make it an ideal companion for a relaxed suit or smart casual attire.
Whether you’re heading to a weekend brunch or a laid-back office setting, a sports watch adds a hint of effortless cool.
Aviator Watches
Elevate your style with an aviator watch, especially when donning a more nonchalant suit, like khaki.
Inspired by pilot instruments, these watches exude a masculine charm.
Pair it with a turtleneck and a well-fitted suit for a contemporary yet classic look.
Smartwatches
Smartwatches can sometimes be fashion-forward accessories. But not with the suit.
I suggest staying away from matching the smartwatch with the suit.
Choose your Watch Band
Your choice of watch band can make or break the harmony between your timepiece and your suit.
About the watch band, always remember to match the leather and metal.
So, Let’s explore watch bands and suit matching.
Leather Strap
Elevate a classic suit with a leather strap for timeless sophistication. Think black leather for formal occasions and brown for a versatile touch.
Metal Bracelet
Modernize your look with a metal bracelet, ideal for business-casual or semi-formal suits. Silver complements cool tones, while gold adds warmth to your ensemble.
NATO Strap
Infuse a casual flair into your outfit with a NATO strap. Perfect for smart casual or casual suits, match the strap color with subtle tones in your attire.
Rubber or Silicone Strap
Go sporty with a rubber or silicone strap, a great choice for casual or athleisure suits. Opt for neutral tones that seamlessly blend with your overall style.
Fabric Strap
For a laid-back vibe, choose a fabric strap. Ideal for casual suits or weekend wear, coordinate the strap color with elements in your outfit for a cohesive look.
Consider the Watch Fit
The eternal menswear mantra “Fit is king” applies to watches too.
Here’s a guide to ensure your timepiece harmonizes seamlessly with your suit.
Wrist Placement
Traditionally, wear your watch on your non-dominant wrist. This allows for ease of movement, especially if you’re using your dominant hand for tasks.
The watch should sit comfortably above the wrist bone.
The suit jacket and dress shirt cuff fit should be in a way that one-quarter of the watch would be visible.
Remember not everyone is Gianni Agnelli. So avoid wearing the watch over your shirt cuff. Double-wristing is also never acceptable with the suit.
Diameter and Lug Width
Consider the size of your watch relative to your wrist.
For smaller wrists, opt for watches with a diameter of 38-42mm.
Larger wrists can accommodate watches with a diameter of 44mm or more.
The lug width, where the strap attaches, should align proportionally with the watch case.
Watch Fit
A well-fitted watch is snug but not too tight. You should be able to slide a finger between the watch and your wrist without discomfort.
The watch case shouldn’t extend beyond your wrist, ensuring a sleek and polished appearance.
Matching Watch Size with Suit Style
For Formal Suits: Choose a more understated watch with a smaller diameter. A classic dress watch with a minimalistic design complements the refined nature of formal suits.
For Casual and Business-Casual Suits: Experiment with slightly larger watches. Chronographs or sporty watches with a diameter of 40-44mm can add a hint of casual flair without overwhelming your wrist.
For Bold, Modern Suits: If you’re sporting a contemporary, bold suit, you can go for larger watches with a diameter exceeding 44mm. This creates a striking contrast, emphasizing your watch as a statement piece.
The Watch, Suit, and the Dress Code
Wearing a watch with a suit is an art that extends across various dress codes.
As a general rule of thumb, the more formal the dress code is, the less creative you can be with your watch.
Here are your options.
Watch for Black and White Tie
Black and White-tie are time only formal events. And therefore, by the classic sartorial norms, a watch would be a distraction.
However, the modern black and white tie isn’t what it used to be (a little more creative now). This allows the room to wear a watch.
For black-tie events, less is often more. Opt for a classic dress watch with a black leather strap to complement the elegance of your tuxedo or formal suit.
Keep it understated to let your overall ensemble shine.
I would suggest sticking to a dress watch, even with a black-tie creative outfit.
Watches in Business Formal Dress Code
The boardroom demands a confident yet approachable aura. Mid-sized dress watches with clean lines and subtle details fit the bill.
Opt for steel or gold cases with leather straps that match your belt buckle.
Chronograph complications can add a touch of action, but keep it tasteful.
Remember, you’re negotiating deals, not racing deadlines.
Business Casual and Smart Casual Suits and Watches
Brunch with friends or a chic after-work cocktail party call for a relaxed yet polished look.
Field watches with canvas straps can add a touch of laid-back elegance to your suit.
For a vintage vibe, try a pilot’s watch with its bold numerals and rugged charm.
Just keep the size in check – your watch shouldn’t swallow your wrist.
Matching the Watch and the Suit Color
Color harmony is another important aspect of wearing a watch or a suit.
The goal should be to choose a dial and strap that complements your suit.
Here are your options.
Black Suit
Black suits make a bold statement, and your watch choice should follow suit.
A black or dark gray leather bracelet watch creates a sleek and cohesive look.
Consider a touch of silver metal bracelet for a luxurious contrast, in a comparatively relaxed dress code.
It’s best to avoid brown leather straps with the black suit.
Navy blue suits speak sophistication. Pair it with a watch featuring a blue dial and a black leather strap for an effortlessly chic.
It’s a perfect combination for professional settings and formal events. White dials are also a great option.
For a more versatile approach, try wearing a navy suit with a brown leather strap.
Metal Bracelets are acceptable as long as they are not overly bold.
Grey Suit
A grey suit offers a versatile canvas for your timepiece.
Enhance its elegance with a metal bracelet, and choose a watch dial with contrasting details for a pop of interest.
For a monochromatic look, consider a black leather strap with a minimalist dial.
You can go with the nato strap, for James Bond-inspired charisma.
Brown Suit
Brown is a relatively casual suit color. This means you can test out your creativity, by matching different watch options.
The failsafe combination is wearing a brown suit with a matching leather strap watch.
A vintage-inspired dial with Roman numerals or classic indices enhances the overall aesthetic.
Consider a slightly larger case for a bold, retro-inspired statement.
Metallic bracelets also pair well with brown. Silver is your best bet.
Adding All this in a Harmony
Wearing a watch with a suit is all about putting thought and effort into picking the right details.
Start by choosing the right watch style, band, and fit. Then adapt these details to different dress codes and suit colors.
Match watch bands and dials with suit tones.
Avoid mistakes like mismatched formality and clashing colors. Ensure the perfect fit and occasion-appropriate choices, and you’re ready to go.
I am George. I am a watch enthusiast as far as I can remember.
My passion for horology extends beyond the surface, delving into the art, history, and precision that make each watch a masterpiece.