How to Wear a Pocket Watch

The pocket watch, once an item, a man couldn’t leave the house without, has fallen out of fashion in recent decades.

Often perceived as a relic of the past and overshadowed by the convenience of wristwatches, it is now making a comeback. Kudos to Mr. Shelby in the Peaky Blinders.

From its practical beginnings to its ornate design during the Victorian era, the pocket watch can be a symbol of style and sophistication.

In this guide, you’ll learn the modern way to wear the pocket watch.

How to Wear a Pocket Watch with Style

The modern way of wearing a pocket watch is not to use it for timekeeping. Instead, treat it more like a jewelry.

Knowing the nuances of a pocket watch is equally important to style it properly.

So, let’s start.

Understand the Types of Pocket Watches

First off, we’ve got the Open Face pocket watch. It’s a no-nonsense, minimalist watch with no cover.

The watch face is visible at all times, making it the go-to choice for quick time checks.

Think of it as the James Bond of pocket watches – efficient, effective, and effortlessly classy.

Next in line, is the Full Hunter. This bad boy comes with a protective lid.

You’ll have to pop it open to check the time, adding a touch of suspense and pizzazz to your looks.

Perfect for those who like a bit of drama in their lives, wouldn’t you agree?

Last but not least, say hello to the Half Hunter. It’s a hybrid, with a cover sporting a nifty little window to show the time.

It’s the best of both worlds, blending accessibility with the intrigue of a cover. Now, isn’t that a stylish compromise?

Double hunter pocket watches are also a rare option, with covers on both sides.

Those are more commonly used for special occasions and not great for typical wear.

Pick the Color of Your Pocket Watch

Traditionally, pocket watches come in metallic hues like gold, silver, or brass, each carrying its statement. 

Gold screams luxury and opulence. Meanwhile, silver offers a touch of subtlety and sophistication.

As for the brass, it’s edgier and gives a vintage appeal.

Always remember, the color of your pocket watch should compliment your outfit, and reflect your personality.

Pocket Watch Chains

A pocket watch consists of the watch itself, fob, attachment, and chain.

However, the the chain is most impactful among all, deciding the balance of style of your look.

Typically, there are three types of pocket watch chains:

T-Bar Pocket Watch Chain

The T-Bar chain derives its name from the ‘T’ shaped bar at one end that threads through a buttonhole.

It’s the most traditional chain and was often used by railroad workers for its practicality.

It’s a durable and classic choice for those looking to maintain a vintage aesthetic.

Belt Slide Pocket Watch Chain – Belt Loop Slides

Belt slide chains feature a mechanism that slides over the belt and offers a secure fit.

Typically seen as a more casual option, the belt slide chain is convenient and less likely to tangle.

Bolt Ring Pocket Watch Chain

The bolt ring chain, or pocket clip chain, is one of the most secure options.

It features a small fixed ring on one end of the chain and a spring-loaded bolt ring on the other end, which attaches to a small loop sewn into the watch pocket of your pants.

This chain is perfect for those who are constantly on the move and want a secure attachment.

Different Ways to Wear a Pocket Watch

Your pocket watch style and chain are now settled, it’s time for action and explore different ways to wear a pocket watch.:

With a Suit

There is nothing more elegant and timeless than pairing your pocket watch with a full three-piece suit.

There are many ways to do it. 

The Double Albert Chain, named after Prince Albert, is a traditional choice with two chains suspended from a T-bar.

It’s ideal for formal occasions with three-piece suits. The two chains allow you to attach a pocket watch on one side and a fob or another accessory on the other.

It’s a grand statement of style, expressing a high level of sophistication.

A variation of the Double Albert, the Double Albert Chain with Drop, includes an additional chain, known as a ‘drop’.

This extra chain, often adorned with a decorative fob or medal, hangs down the middle and adds extra details to your outfit.

It’s perfect when you want a bit of extra flair for special occasions.

The Single Albert Chain is simple, practical, and ideal for everyday wear.

It features a single chain connecting the pocket watch to the lapel or waistcoat buttonhole.

This chain style offers understated elegance and is a great choice if you prefer a more minimalist look.

Another style is the Fob Drop. It refers to a decorative piece that hangs from the pocket watch chain.

Historically, fobs were used as seals, but today they’re primarily a style element.

Fobs can come in a variety of designs, from ornate symbols to engraved initials.

As a general rule of thumb place the pocket watch, on the same side pocket as your dominant hand. 

If wearing a two-piece suit, you can wear the watch inside your trouser pants and breast pocket.

With a Vest or Waistcoat

The vest or waistcoat offers the perfect backdrop to display your pocket watch in all its glory.

Traditionally, a pocket watch would be placed in the pocket on the same side as your non-dominant hand.

The watch chain would be threaded through the buttonhole of the waistcoat, leaving the watch on one side and the watch fob hanging on the other.

This style is known as the Classic Vest Chain style. It is simple, functional, and timeless. 

For a smart casual twist, you could consider the Leash Chain style. 

In this style, the watch is kept in the pocket, but the chain weaves in and out of the buttonholes before clipping back onto itself, creating a chain leash that drapes across the waistcoat.

This style adds an extra layer of sophistication and is sure to turn heads.

Remember, the key to wearing a pocket watch with a vest or waistcoat is to keep it simple and let the watch be the focal point.

With Formal Wear

Yes! You can wear a pocket watch with a tuxedo. It depends on if you’re wearing a waistcoat or cummerbund.

If you’re wearing a waistcoat, the same rules of wearing a pocket watch with a suit will apply here.

With cummerbund, place your pocket watch in the chest pocket.

The pocket watch’s chain should be routed to your lapel, with the T-bar neatly threaded through the buttonhole of your lapel.

You have the liberty of draping the chain either beneath or above the lapel based on your aesthetic preferences.

Note that the watch and the formal wear have a very dichotomous relationship. I recommend reading this “watch with tuxedo” guide before wearing any watch with a formal ensemble.

Wearing a Pocket Watch Casually with Jeans

Pocket watches aren’t just for formal outfits; they can add a vintage charm to your casual attire as well.

Pairing a pocket watch with jeans is an excellent way to incorporate a sophisticated accessory into a relaxed look.

Typically, the pocket watch is attached to a belt loop and tucked into the front pocket, letting the chain hang loose for a nonchalant vibe.

Opt for a silver or brass watch with a casual chain like the bolt ring or belt slide for an effortless blend of modern and vintage.

Remember, the goal is to add a subtle hint of uniqueness to your ensemble, so avoid overly ornate or flashy designs.

This way, you maintain the relaxed feel of your outfit, while adding a dash of individuality that a pocket watch provides.

Wearing a Pocket Watch as a Necklace

As you guess by the names, these heirlooms of the timepieces are made to stay inside the pocket.

But that doesn’t stop anyone from breaking the rules and experimenting with styles.

Wearing a pocket watch as a necklace is one such fashion statement that can give you an edgy look.

Simply attach the chain of your pocket watch to a long string, leather cord, or chain necklace, and voila! You have yourself a unique accessory piece.

This style works best with smaller, lightweight pocket watches, and can add a touch of bohemian flair to your outfit.

You can also incorporate other charms or pendants into the chain for a more eclectic look.

Pocket Watch Dos and Don’ts

Dos

• Do match metals: If you’re a stickler for details, match the metal of your pocket watch with your belt buckle, cufflinks, and other details.
• Do respect tradition: Traditional wear often means pairing a gold pocket watch with a morning dress and a silver one for an afternoon and evening dress.
• Do keep good posture: Wearing a pocket watch well often means keeping good posture; you need a high waist to have a good place to put the watch.
• Do have confidence: Wear it with confidence, and it will work with almost any style you choose.

Don’ts

• Don’t overthink it: There are guidelines to follow, but in the end, the best way to wear a pocket watch is the way that makes you feel most comfortable and reflects your style.
• Don’t overload your look: Keep the rest of your accessories to a minimum. A pocket watch can be the standout piece in your outfit, so let it shine.
• Don’t rush the process: Taking the time to wind your pocket watch and gently place it in your pocket is part of the charm. Rushing can lead to damage.
• Don’t keep the same watch every day: If you are lucky enough to own more than one pocket watch, switch them up! Each one has its personality and can match different moods and styles.

Caring for Your Pocket Watch

A pocket watch is an investment in more ways than one. Here are tips for keeping it in top condition:

• Cleaning: Wipe down your pocket watch with a soft, clean cloth after each use to remove oils and dirt. Cleaning is good for the longevity of your watch
• Maintenance: Have your pocket watch serviced every few years to keep it running smoothly. This involves cleaning and oiling the movement.
• Proper storage: Store your pocket watch in a secure, dry place, preferably a lined box or case to protect it from scratches and dust.
• Proper handling: Always open and close the watch gently. Don’t forget to use your hands to change the time; pulling and pushing the crown can place unnecessary pressure on the movement.